*2007 DuMOL Ryan Pinot Noir
DuMOL Ryan Pinot Noir, Russian River Valley, USA 2007
Bright garnet color. Effusive cool climate aromatics of wild berries, sassafras, lilac, graphite and a fragrant edge of hyacinth. The floral perfume continues on the palate with violet pastille and then a core of kirsch and blueberry. The mid-palate broadens and fleshes-out but maintains freshness throughout. Tannins are silky, fine and polished and leave an intriguing lingering stony quality on the finish.
Alongside the 2002 and 2005 ‘Ryan’ bottlings this latest vintage ranks as my own personal favorite. It combines the texture and effortless concentration of the ’02 with the penetrating structure and vibrant freshness of the ’05. It’s a beautifully complete and harmonious wine. The Widdoes vineyard, again, is aromatically and texturally the center of the wine, while Abbott is the spine and framework that brings it all together. They are natural blending partners and undoubtedly bring out the best in each other. As is the case with our Estate vineyard, the tightly spaced (4 x 4 feet) 1.4 acre Abbott vineyard ripens its fruit at significantly lower sugar levels than traditionally spaced vineyards (7 x 5 feet). This results in pristine fruit that is rich and full, yet has a beautiful fresh crunchy quality alongside laser-like acid precision and lingering coastal freshness; it’s really a profound combination. I anticipate this wine will offer great pleasure soon after release, but also age into a real beauty over the following decade.